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My windows are always all the way down. If it did hit the box, I haven’t noticed. Doing a 4 channel amp at some point and might pull the panels again. I’ve added two 8” 800 watt rms subs since this video. Been meaning to do a video on them but haven’t got around to it.

@@FinalBossGarage Good. It's a good idea to put the window all the way down before pulling the door panel off. Then it'll be easy to see where it's going to hit. The crossover looked right in line with where the window ends up.

Signal from ignition

@@FinalBossGarage Thanks. I suspect that it was in fact what is termed the S post on the solinoid. I am in process of trouble shooting my 2008 Uplander and what had me confused was that on my starter there is no physical S Post. It merely had a female plastic connector with which a single small gauge with from underneath the vehicle plugged into. I was presuming it was the signal wire to the solinoid traveling down thru the path to set the solinoid in motion to activate the connection so the electric on the B post could travel on to the starter motor.

I went through some serious do, or die circumstances and still am on this vehicle, but I think I found the correct path in the following post by someone. Here it is for your review. It has to be the simplest, least confusing set of instructions on this subject I have ever come across. It occured to me you might be able to use it as a blueprint for an instruction guide to give out to others snd perhaps check it over and comment if you see anything in it that its missing. If not I should be good to go. “No Crank No Start” Let’s start with the issue on a particular car…a 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis. Car was starting up just fine everyday until one day I went to start it and just clicked. I knew the battery must have drained overnight somehow so I thought I had a parasitic drain somewhere in my car but when I checked, it was just drawing around 20mV (well under average draw of 50mV) so I ruled that out and since my battery was 7 years old, I assumed that the battery just gave up. I purchased another battery, replaced it and my car started BUT…I did notice that the first two or three cranks were very slow and after that, the starter was cranking normally and started the car right away. The same thing happened every time I started the car, slow cranking at first and then normal cranking speed and starting up right away. That went on for about two weeks or so until I finally started having issues starting the car again. Sometimes when I turned the key, I only got a single click and then nothing else, no crank, no start. Some other times, after I turned the key, it would take a full second for the starter to start cranking the engine and then start the car as usual. And some other times it would start the car right up! This was the pattern for a few more days until I just couldn’t start the car AT ALL! Turn the key, single click and no crank, no start! Ok…time to check every component of the starting system to see what went bad! First…I did the simplest things to do. Just tap softly on the starter with a hammer or something somewhat heavy while you try to crank the starter and see if that gets it going. It did not. OK…maybe the flywheel ended up in a position where the starter can’t catch it and therefore unable to crank the engine. The solution…simply turn the crankshaft pulley with a breaker bar and the appropriate socket a little bit to turn the flywheel enough for the starter to catch it and start the engine up. (This method will also let you know if your engine is seized up or not and a reason why your starter would not be able to start your engine) I was able to turn the flywheel and then tried to start the car…still one click, no crank, no start! No flywheel issues! OK…next thing…check your battery voltage. Without any load on it, it should read around 12.6V or so when it is fully charged. If that checks out, next…measure the voltage on the battery while trying to start the car (doesn’t matter if the engine cranks or not, the load will still be there) the voltage should not go below 10V. If it does go below 10V, then your battery charge is low and therefore won’t be able to crank your engine. Have it recharged and try again with a full charge. If the starter still doesn’t crank the engine, now you know your battery is not the culprit!. (In my case my battery was brand new so I knew that was not the issue. I was reading around 11V with a cranking load) Next step…check resistance on battery cables with voltage drop WHILE there is a load on the cable. Set your DMM on DC Volts and connect one lead to the positive battery terminal and your other lead to the other side of the positive battery cable that goes down to your starter and connects to your starter solenoid. (It doesn’t matter what lead you use on either side as you’re only looking to see the voltage difference between leads) (Not all starters have the solenoid mounted on the starter itself so just follow the thicker positive cable from the battery until it reaches the solenoid) Try cranking the engine for about 10-15 seconds and read the voltage on the meter. Any reading below 0.5V is acceptable on most cars but please check on your particular model. If you get a reading of more than 0.5V, then your cable is bad and needs to be replaced as it has way too much resistance for the current to flow properly to the starter. If the positive cable checked out okay now test the negative cable. Connect one lead of the DMM to the negative battery terminal and the other lead to the starter body. Crank engine for 10-15 seconds and check voltage. Same…if above 0.5V reading, the cable is bad and needs to be replaced. (NOTE: If your starter is actually cranking the engine but you just want to check your cables, you need to disable either your fuel pump or the ignition system to prevent the starter from starting the engine) (Also…allow the starter to cool off for a couple of minutes between cranking attempts or you could literally fry the solenoid) In my case, both the positive and the negative cables checked out okay so the cables were not the issue either. Bad ignition switch?..You can check this easily with your jumper cables or a remote starter. Keep the ignition switch in the off position - Just connect one end of the positive jumper cable to the positive battery terminal and with the other positive end of the jumper cable briefly touch the smaller bolt on the starter solenoid to activate the starter. Do the same thing with the remote starter with the only difference that you actually connect the alligator clip to the solenoid smaller bolt and press the button on the remote to activate the starter. If the starter now cranks the engine, there is a problem in the wiring from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. In my case, I still had just one click, no crank, no start! Ruled out ignition switch as a culprit as well! If you went through all these steps and still couldn’t find the problem, then there is only one thing left that can be wrong…THE STARTER! I should mention that this starter had only been on this car for 4 years (I replaced the original one after the bare wire going from the solenoid to the motor corroded so bad that it couldn't flow current properly anymore and therefore couldn’t crank the engine. (Why is it bare anyway to begin with? Especially anywhere that roads get salted for winter! UGH!) I honestly thought that the last thing that could be wrong would be the starter so before I took it out I checked this bare wire and it was still looking pretty good after 4 winters. But I wanted to be 100% sure whether the starter was the issue or not so I took it out and before having it tested at the auto parts store where I bought it from, I bench tested myself and sure enough…it was still doing the one click, no spin. The one click was just from the gear coming out to meet the flywheel but there was no spinning whatsoever. YES! Found the problem! Bad starter!! But why did it fail after only 4 years of use? I wondered… To be double sure lol I still took it to have it tested with their machine and guess what guys??? The same starter that wouldn’t work for me is now working for them every single time they start it…HOW IS THAT POSSIBLE?! They said it’s working like it should so there must be something else wrong with the starting system in my car. I was puzzled!!.. I was pretty sure the problem was the starter! I brought it back home and bench tested it again and guess what??? YES!!! You got it! It went back to doing the same thing it was doing before, just coming out but no spinning. Now I started to believe that maybe the battery was bad after all and just didn’t have enough juice to crank the engine. I wanted to be sure about the battery as well so I took it out of the car and took it with me along with the starter and the proof of purchase for the starter as it had a limited lifetime warranty on it. Got to the store and they tested the battery and passed the test perfectly! (I wasn’t surprised…it is an almost brand new battery) I asked them to just give me a new starter with the warranty I had on the old one and they did. I asked them if they could test both starters to see if I could see any differences and they did… RESULTS…New starter was coming out smoothly and spinning fast as it should since it’s new. Old starter wasn’t as smooth coming out and I also noticed that it wasn’t spinning as fast as the new one BUT it was working nonetheless! (Still puzzled about it) I grabbed the new starter, the battery and came back home. Installed the battery back in the car and then I proceeded to bench test the new starter and guess what???..It was doing what it is supposed to do…coming out and spinning fast! Got under the car, put it back on the engine, got on the driver seat, turned that key to start and the engine started right away like it normally does! PROBLEM SOLVED!!! So…to answer the question that if a car’s starter could be bad after testing OK, the answer is YES!! 100% It can be bench tested, pass the test and still be a bad starter!

Or hit a pothole😂

@@ElGalloNegro628 I put a new plug on a few weeks ago hahaa

Sure is man. Those are my current stomping grounds

@@FinalBossGarage LOL! Been 15 years since I ended up in Nor-Cal I need to come down this summer and check out the old meet up spots and see if I recognize anyone. lol

Take out the air filter box.

Kerry Herr on Facebook sells them. He was either in the mullet militia group or 3rd gen Camaro group. Just search the group members for him

Go under the vehicle and apply pressure to the connector so it can start up, while with the other hand use the key fob to start it .... when starting it it causes enough force to kick the connector off..

Crazy this happened at my moms , freed the starter up to get my truck home and I’m waiting for a starter in the mail just use my car for the time being

Dude I’ve done my starter 3 times since. I’ve broken 2 of the 3. It’s still frustrating

Mine broke in my tundra. It literally crumbled to pieces.

@@FinalBossGarage 3 times! What brand are you buying? I bought the AC Delco brand off Amazon so I could get 2 day shipping and hopefully it’s the last one I have to buy. Truck is a 2015 so no auto on/off BS

@andrewgardner107 i got it from autozone so luckily each time has been under warranty. Seem to get about 20k miles out of each one. Mine is a 2015 as well. I can change it in about 10 minutes now that’s I’ve had all the practice.

Recently pulled my starter on Thursday, and the tab was brittle. After fighting with it for a few minutes, I broke it 🤦🏽‍♂️

Technically it’s not true duals, cause I did do an x pipe.

Accept… the correct spelling is accept.

No soliciting

Amen 🙏🏻

Dude I still have no idea. I’ve broken two already. I hate those clips

@@FinalBossGarage I mean like when you installed the new pig tail did you just push it onto the starter. You didn’t break it in the video. I have the new pigtail ready to go just not sure when I push it on the starter if I need to remove the red tab then install then put red tab back on the

@@nathangraham7248bro what??? I’m so confused by this why would you remove only the red tab? If you have a new connector why not just replace the whole thing

I’ve replaced 3 in the last 70k miles. I blame myself for buying shitty autozone but the warranty helps

Wrong. In turbo 400 shift points at wot are controlled by the weights in the mechanical governor in the transmission.

​​@@billskalicky5400 Shift kit does not make it shift at a higher RPM it makes each shift firmer shift points are whenever you shift it at least in a manual reverse setup that's exactly how it is

@@MrYukon04 did you read my comment? I speak about a governor not the shift kit.

​@@billskalicky5400 yes and I was talking about the shift kit. He was saying he needed one to shift at a higher RPM. Shift kit aren't for that

No problem!

All terrain. 35/12.5/20